Irish Times Restaurant Review - Lagom Kenmare

When The Irish Times visited Lagom this spring, they described the experience as “a Goldilocks moment where Swedish harmony meets fired-up Kerry fare.” We couldn’t agree more.

A Room That Breathes

The review begins not with food, but with feeling. The quiet texture of putty-coloured walls, the grain of birch saplings, the warmth of natural slate. “The space is gently choreographed,” writes Corinna Hardgrave. It is, as intended, a room that lets you exhale.

Flame, Simplicity, and Season

Our kitchen is small. The fire is central. Each dish begins with what’s in season, sourced locally where possible, and shaped by restraint. The Irish Times praised the confidence behind the menu:

• A squid ink croustade filled with crab and bright herbs.

• Goat’s cheese tortellini in beetroot borscht—“earth and acidity in silk.”

• Lamb cooked gently over oak, served with a lamb cannelloni.

• And the rhubarb “iceberger”: gingerbread and Champagne-macerated rhubarb, a final note that “absolutely floors you.”

A Balanced Table

Lagom means “not too little, not too much.” The balance lives in the cooking, but also in the service, the design, the rhythm of the evening. It is a place to settle in—whether for a quiet solo dinner or a shared occasion.

Our menus shift with the seasons. You can view them here.

Just Right

The Irish Times put it simply:

““A ceramic grill and a steady hand give Lagom its edge.””

We’re very grateful for the kind words. Read the full article here